Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Indians














Indians in New Jersey describe themselves as being hidden in plain sight. The Nanticoke Lenni-Lenape tribe claims to have been in New Jersey for 10,000 years (they are referred to by other Indians as “the Ancient Ones”) They have had a sort of diplomatic relation with Sweden for over 350 years, who they were in contact with before the English were in the area.

The Lenni Lenape do not support vices like drinking and gambling, and therefore are not involved with any casino activities. I’m kind of fascinated how a culture like this can preserve it’s traditions over such a long time, in face of oppression and relocations. The Lenni Lenape were put on a reservation in New Jersey before the country was even formed.

I recently attended a PowWow in Pilesgrove, which I found very inspiring. Although open to the public, it had a “for us, by us” feel to it. The participants seemed so proud to be doing their dances, and wearing their costumes, and singing their songs that it was great to witness.

Despite the Indian pride, they were more than accommodating in answering this outsider’s questions and posing for photos. I struggle with taking photos at times like this – what I see as a celebration of a culture can seem to others as bordering on exploitation. I hope that the photos inspire curiosity and understanding.

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Fireworks


Every Friday night there are fireworks over the New Hope - Lambertville bridge. They start at 9:30 and will continue through September. It's quite a big show for two little towns.
The Artists' Gallery is just a half block away at 18 Bridge Street in Lambertville, and we're staying open late for the fireworks so stop by and say hello.

Hidden Gardens



For the past few years, the Artists’ Gallery has supported the Kalmia Club by joining them in their annual tour of the Hidden Gardens of Lambertville. The town has many small backyard gardens that people have transformed into wonderful little spaces that most people just don’t get to see.





















Every year the Kalmia chooses a number of these gardens to be on the tour, and the members of the Artists’ Gallery paint or take photos of the gardens. The finished pieces are for sale later in the gallery, with a portion of the sale supporting the Kalmia Club. This year, the sale will be in December.



Some pieces, however, might make it into our September show. It is part of NJ that one does not usually get to see, and the gardens are unexpected. They sometimes include water features, topiary, exotic plants, and artwork. They are always beautifully arranged spaces.



This year I liked the exotic passion flower that is only in bloom a short time, and the mud maiden that will be covered in greenery as the summer progresses. One of the gardens features some works by local artist Bee McDonald Burke who does little wooden constructions comprised of colorful lines.




Thursday, June 17, 2010

Lakota Wolf Preserve














Our exhibit is in September, not that far away and I'm starting to freak out. I thought I better get caught up on some things I've been meaning to post and get out there and shoot!
The Lakota Wolf Preserve in Columbia NJ, near the Delaware Water Gap, really fits our theme for this exhibit – a New Jersey hidden treasure that you will only find when you get off the main highways. Other than the safari at Six Flags Great Adventure, who knew these kinds of wild animals were in New Jersey?

I shot there this past winter, and found the wolves separated into packs in large fenced areas. The operators Dan and Pam Bacon along with Jim Stein have been committed to saving wolves and providing a safe place for them in New Jersey.
Wolves are actually native to New Jersey, although they are long gone from the area. The preserve is home to relocated Timber, Arctic, and Tundra wolves, as well as foxes and bobcats.

Visiting the preserve is a bit surreal, as you travel through the forest to find the ever-vigilant wolves are awaiting your arrival. The pack misses nothing, as the eyes and ears are constantly alert for motion and sound. The guide explains the pack hierarchy and there are constant challenges and rebuttals by the leader. The challenger either backs down immediately or risks being killed, so the confrontations are short and violent.

Although these beautiful animals look very much like the loveable husky dogs in your neighborhood, the wolves are wild animals. They are socialized to be around humans, otherwise they would stay out of sight. That does not mean they are friendly, or that they will not bite or attack without warning. Another photographer I was with was not paying attention when one of the wolves got his snout under the chain link fence and bit the photographer’s foot. There were teeth marks on his heavy boot, had he been wearing sneakers the teeth would have left more than a scratch.

Visitors have two chain link fences between them and the wolves, photographers can pay $300 for access to the interior chain link fence, which has openings for unobstructed shooting. These access windows are large enough for a wolf to get his head through when open. Needless to say I used a long lens and kept aware of my surroundings. Still, I was often surprised to find a wolf closer than I expected.

This is an unforgettable day trip, and will remind you just how wild this state really is. Learn more at lakotawolf.com

Bed, Bath, and Beyond the Horizon

Posted by Rich- A long time ago, so long ago it was before we had use of the internet or owned a cell phone (we’re talking 1993 here) my young family took a vacation. We traveled by car from Syracuse, NY, to Cape May, NJ. We loved the place, and have returned often, especially once we moved to Bucks Co., PA, only a 100 or so miles away from Cape May.

This initial trip in 1993 involved a full day of travel time; my two daughters were 5 and 3 years old, respectively, and we had to stop often. I found myself getting pretty weary as well towards the end of that day of driving, and we took one last rest stop just North of the city of Cape May in a small hamlet named Rio Grande.

Rio Grande was originally known as Hildreth, named after the family that built a General Store there around 1850. The area was located within a large plantation owned by the Aaron Leaming family, and the vicinity acquired the name “Leamings”, in deference to the owners of the land. Eventually, a direct descendant of the original land owner, the seventh Aaron Leaming, thought “Rio Grande” had an attractive sound and christened the crossroads with that name. Apparently, others liked the name as well, because despite the fact that there is no river running anywhere near the small town, the name stuck.

Although you could feel you were close to the ocean, Rio Grande wasn’t a seaside resort town; it wasn’t much of anything, actually, except a Wawa convenient mart* at the crossroads of Rts. 9 and 47, a few other structures, and acres of open farmland. Rt. 47 runs East/West between the Delaware Bay and the Atlantic Ocean, specifically to Wildwood, only about 5 miles or so away from Rio Grande. Rt 9 runs parallel to the Garden State Parkway, with an exit for Wildwood where the Parkway intersects with Rt.47 on its way to the Ocean. Given the quietness of the place when I first stopped there, it seemed that most people must take the previous exit on the Garden State Parkway for North Wildwood onto Rt 147 a few miles back, or just decided to step on it and keep heading South until they reached Cape May and the very Southern tip of the State of New Jersey. Rio Grande felt like a sleepy pit stop you could choose to make before you entered the carnival atmosphere of Wildwood, or a place to stop and double check you indeed had secured the cooler chest and beach chairs to the roof of the car after you left Cape May and headed North.














How it used to be: A reconstruction of the Rio Grande train station ca.1900, in Historic Cold Spring Village, about 4 miles South of Rio Grande on Rt 9. (Image borrowed from www.hcsv.org/O_page/PressPage.htm)

At least that’s what it seemed like in 1993. 17 years later, it would appear most of the area has been paved with black top and marked off into rows for automobile parking in front of tremendous strip malls. The transformation of the area was a bit shocking to me at first. The Wawa is now a Super Wawa; the older, smaller scale regular Wawa building stands off to the side of the Super structure awaiting it’s fate, or perhaps a new tenant (a Super Duper Dunkin Donuts, perhaps?). Buildings that made the acres of black top necessary stretch from the Super Wawa on the corner of Rts. 47 and 9 to a point so far North on the horizon that you can no longer make out what exactly the business is, despite the large signs adorning the outside of the corniced facades of each retail store.








The Stores down the Shore: the big picture from behind the Wawa.

Perhaps it is a Target? Wal Mart? A Super Target…? Whatever it was, apparently enough people needed to stop there before entering Wildwood or Cape May to make this concentration of retail outlets necessary and viable.

In our case, it was the new Starbucks that made us stop at Rio Grande. Along with the Lowe’s, Michael’s, and Famous Footwear storefronts stretching out well over a quarter mile, Google maps had located the Starbucks for us in an adjacent strip mall. Apparently, neither Cape May or Wildwood has a Starbucks, and after a few days at the shore my wife Laurie was feeling the need for a coffee fixed the way she likes it. “Roughing it” to her is getting a hotel that does not have room service. Although Starbucks is a large chain of franchises, she knows she will get her coffee prepared exactly the way she likes it, whether in our home town in Pennsylvania or where she worked in Manhattan.

I’m not a coffee hound myself, but I can empathize, as I would drive a distance to get a hoagie prepared the way I like at a Wawa . The Wawa that had been in Cape May itself was shuttered and the building put up for sale, perhaps as a result of the Super Wawa a few miles away in Rio Grande. Crazy couples like us, craving caffeine and lunch meat prepared in a specific manner and willing to drive out of our way to get it, probably accounted for the big changes in the retail businesses here. I guess the developers felt confident that once we were in Rio Grande and satisfied with our deli and designer coffee selections, we’d stick around and buy some famous foot wear or select items for our bed, bath, and even beyond.

After getting the usual hot drinks at Starbucks ( A Grande, Soy, No Foam, No Whip, Two Pump Mocha for the lady, and a Tall Earl Grey Tea for me; I didn’t feel the need for a hoagie that particular day), I had to drive down the parking lot of this tremendous retail zone to see exactly what store was anchoring the other end of the parking lots. The far building turned out to be a Wal Mart, something of an anti climax, but I wasn’t really expecting anything unusual. It was a SUPER Wal Mart , though, the kind with a grocery store AND a McDonalds included within. We chose to enjoy our drinks in the car, however, and didn’t venture inside.

In it’s banality, I found the complex that seemed to have devoured the small crossroads community of Rio Grande fascinating. As we drove up the parking lot and past the ornate entrances of the chain stores on our left, we noticed a green patch of property about an acre in size jutting into the paved parking area and surrounded on three sides by parking places. It was an old cemetery with an ornate iron gate entrance, a preserved sacred plot of land that was evidence of a slower, simpler time in Leamings, when the residents still made their own coffee in the morning and probably never dreamed of something called a frappacino made with soy milk.

Saying that there has been a lot of growth and development in the area since 1993 is an understatement; the addition of the Starbucks and the improvement to the Wawa virtually guarantee that I’ll continue to stop at Rio Grande for coffee and hoagies when we make our trips to Cape May and Wildwood. If this of rate retail development continues , however, it might be known as SUPER Rio Grande by the time I make my next visit.


*For those who do not live Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, Virgina, or New Jersey, a Wawa is chain of great convenience stores with very good service and a good selection of food and sundry items. The corporate headquarters are located in Wawa, Pennsylvania. The name for the town is the native American Ojibwe word for the Canada Goose, and a goose in flight is featured as part of their logo. While a 7-Eleven tends to be more snack oriented, you can get a pretty good meal at a Wawa. Its just tough to say the name without thinking you’re talking like a baby.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

More on Chuck's Farm














Rich certainly captured the spirit of Chuck's farm in the previous post, I don't have much more to add other than some photos. I was able to visit recently for the first time and was greatly impressed by Chuck's ingenuity. He is very comfortable coming up with engineering solutions that are aesthetically pleasing, and this is evident all over the farm. It is also evident in Chuck's glass sculptures.



Whether it's the smart-looking goat barn, or the guest house that feels a bit like a chic tree house, everything here is recycled or reused with a touch of style. Even the outhouse has stained glass panels.





Of course, it's the animals that steal the show. The goats are already quite a bit larger than when Rich visited. They were a little skittish and I didn't want to chase them around, so I didn't get a lot of pics of them.














They are living in a goat paradise with a nice barn, lush pastures, and plenty of piles of wood and things to jump up on. They seem very content and happy here. I also met one of the tortoises, but he was gone when I went back to get a pic.
The towering pine forest was impressive, it's not easy for us on the east coast to think about pine tress as a crop to be harvested. It must have been amazing for Chuck to watch these trees mature on the farm during his lifetime.









Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Take Me Down to Chuckie’s Farm

Posted By Rich- Baby Goats, Broken Glass, Living in a Laundry Truck, and Sri Yantras. All this and more in the space of two hours at the farm and studio of Chuck Katzenbach. I took my Senior Illustration students from Moore College of Art and Design on an informal field trip to his place this past week, on a gorgeous sunny spring afternoon. It was the day after our Senior Show, and a good way for some art students who had worked hard all year and felt the stress of a real deadline to be able to relax and enjoy a day away from Center City Philadelphia.
Artist Chuck Katzenbach explaining to art students how this solar heater warms his house and barn.

Four students rode the R3 Regional Rail train to Langhorne, PA with me, and we then drove to Lambertville, NJ. We met another of my students, who also happens to be a Mom, in Lambertville with her 5 – year old daughter, Mia. Mia was very interested in going along because Chuck had mentioned to me on the phone that he had some newborn baby goats. Chuck lives on top of a hill on Rt 579 between Lambertville and Hopewell, on a piece of property next to the stone house he grew up in; his son, daughter-in-law and grandchildren live there now. One of my students who came along lives in Texas when she is not attending college at Moore, and her reaction to our drive along the Delaware and up towards Hopewell was "THIS is New Jersey??” Two other students riding with me who actually live in the Garden State closer to Trenton and Cherry Hill area had the same reaction: “THIS is New Jersey??”

Chuck named his operation “Sweet Sourland Farm”, as this region of New Jersey is referred to as “The Sourlands”, but Chuck produces some fantastic maple syrup from the maple trees on his property, so the “Sweet” adjective means more than just the appearance of the place on a sunny spring afternoon. His property is located close to the summit of Sourland Mountain, which at only 560 or so feet above sea level is not really impressive as mountains go. However, given the way large boulders are strewn about on the slopes, and vertical slabs of igneous rock prominently display themselves in outcroppings of argilite, the 560 feet looks pretty dramatic. It's also a great subject for landscape paintings.

Sourland Mountain is really the high point on a long, 17-mile ridge that also includes Baldpate Mountain, with reportedly great views of the Delaware River Valley. This great view probably didn’t matter to the settlers who discovered that this area may be great for painting landscapes, but it's not so good for farming. The boulders, igneous rock outcroppings, and that darned argilite, a rock noted by geologists for its impermeability, made for a lousy aquifer under the Sourlands. Chuck is fortunate in that he has a great spring on his property, so good that when it gets dry down the hill in Hopewell, people used to come to his area in horse-drawn wagons for water.

There wasn’t a heck of a lot going on in the Sourlands besides quarrying all that rock until better roads were built in the 1960s. The remoteness of the area attracted aviator Charles Lindbergh to build his home there; unfortunately, the inaccessibility of the area did not prevent the infamous “Crime of the Century”, the kidnapping and murder of his son, from occurring in 1932.

I didn’t tell my students any of this information while we drove to Chuck’s farm. We were listening to a different Chuck, Chuck Berry, play his greatest hits on the CD player as we drove. Getting closer, I slowed down but still drove right by his place, missing the driveway entrance; I have only been to Chuck’s farm during the winter prior to this, and then I could easily recognize his place by the large illuminated Peace sign he has adorning the cupola of the barn that fronts the road. He put it up as a Christmas decoration a few years ago, decided the message was worth announcing year round, and keeps it there in working order.

As a matter of fact, I hadn’t told them much of anything about what his place was like, which may account for their reaction when we arrived. I pulled my truck up in the driveway between the assortment of small natural colored utility buildings and parked in front of his house. Right away the reaction was "THIS is Chucks farm??”
The small buildings on the property are beautifully constructed by Chuck from timber he harvested from tall Eastern White Pine trees he planted with his father over 50 years ago, and with reclaimed lumber he modified in his own sawmill. Solar panels and solar water heating systems adorn the roofs of a few of the larger structures, and one cozy guest house set back down the hill has a living roof made of sod and other vegetation growing on the 30-degree pitched surface. The guest house is also constructed from reclaimed lumber and cast off materials, including a porch enclosed with large pieces of glass from discarded storm doors.

I think some of the students may have thought the setting would be more like a dairy or horse farm, with Chuck wearing blue overalls and a straw hat, and chugging up out of the North 40 on a John Deere tractor. Well, on his farm he has some goats, but that's about as far as the "e-i,e-i,oh" part goes...

Chuck is a fellow member of the Artists' Gallery Co-op in Lambertville with me. First thing we did was after the students met Mr. Katzenbach and his wife Bru was to see the day’s newborn baby and mommy goat in a straw-filled pen. The students (all girls , by the way; Moore is an all-women’s college) said “Awwwww, how cute!!” several times in unison and took pictures of the baby while Chuck explained how rewarding goat farming is, even with the small herd of 20 or so goats he presently has. He also said that of all the goat meat consumed in the United States, about half of it is served up in the area between New York City and Philadelphia, given the ethnic and religious make up of the population in this area and their taste and need for fresh goat meat. He mentioned that this little guy, and another out in the pasture that had been born a week ago would probably end up on a dinner platter before their first birthday, as the male goats tend to be more valued for their meat than anything else. I guess in an effort to avoid becoming emotionally attached to either of them, he had named this one “Stew”, and the slightly older male out in the field “Burger”. This sobering information on the reality of farming had a mitigating effect on the visitor's exclamations of how cute Little Stew was, but after a few more pix we went outside and Chuck explained how he has made efforts to be “green” with his operation.













The roof could use a little trim: the guest house, with the sawdust privy in the background.

The guest house with the living roof covering and recycled glass doors began it’s life as a chicken coop. It has the feeling of a neat little clubhouse, the kind we all would have loved to have had as a kid to escape from the world on a summer day and read comic books in. Being "green", the converted coop comes complete with an outdoor privy equipped with a sawdust commode. My student from Texas was extremely interested in the way the guest house was constructed, how the privy used sawdust and how the sawdust was used as compost. I was thinking about where I would have kept the comic books.

We were shown the Sugar House, where Chuck boils down sap to make maple syrup. It is also a somewhat rough hewn but neat and tidy structure, with pipes and tubes and chimneys and metal containers running about the interior in a somewhat Rube Goldberg fashion. On the wall Chuck had drawn a Sri Yantra, an ancient design symbol used in Eastern mysticism to balance the mind or focus it on spiritual concepts. Chuck told us it is a crystallization of the word “ohm”, and darn hard to draw accurately. He seemed to do a pretty good job of rendering it, though, and he has taught classes on how to do just that along with a course on understanding and utilizing it. You can find out more about the Sri Yantra design by visiting here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sri_Yantra.




Magical Mystery Maple Syrup: the Sri Yantra in the Sugar House.

The house Chuck and Bru live in is a reassembled 1830's farmhouse from Berks County, PA. After Hurricane Agnes blew through in 1972 and caused widespread flooding in the Northeast, an area outside of Bernville, PA was being converted to a nature, recreational, and flood control area. This house was located in a spot destined to be at the bottom of a resevior, but instead of being bulldozed, it was purchased, disassembled, and the components moved to an area above New Hope, PA. It remained there for a time until Chuck purchased the whole shooting match and moved it piece by piece up to his acreage in the Sourlands. He reconstructed it with improvements in the utilities and insulation, as well as altering the interior layout. It’s a beautiful place, and on the wall of the kitchen Bru pointed out a picture of their first home: an early 1960’s International Harvester panel truck that Chuck and Bru lived and traveled in during the late 1960s and early ‘70s. It was a former delivery truck for an industrial laundry, and perhaps prophetically, they painted it green. After a nice lunch and fascinating stories about traveling around the country in a one seat laundry truck with a pot belly stove in it, we were shown Chuck’s gallery and studio.













Chuck explains the intricacies of cut glass and oil paint assemblages; Mia was not impressed.

The downstairs portion of the converted barn with the illuminated Peace sign on the cupola is a combination of garage and gallery, with motorcycles and vintage trucks on one side of the building and works by Chuck hanging on the other. Chuck works with oils painted on glass, and often cuts glass into geometric shapes and mounts them in layers inside a box frame. Sometimes primary colors are used in conjunction with interlocking shapes to create works that remind me of the Op-Art movement. With his background as a craftsman complimenting his work as an artist, his abstract assemblages are both thought provoking and look good in the sunlight as well.












I Love the Sound of Breaking Glass:
Chuck didn’t, especially after this cut glass version of a Sri Yantra fell off a gallery wall and broke a second work of his.


Upstairs are his glass cutters and table saws, next to a well-used studio with easels, drawing tables and a comfortable couch. Also occupying space in both rooms upstairs is an abundant supply of plate glass and lengths of wood, waiting to be transformed into his next project. True to his “recycle, reuse, repurpose” philosophy, this large amount of glass is a collection of cast off pieces given to Chuck by friends who no longer need it, or glass he scrounged off the curbsides on trash night. He mentioned he will probably never run short of glass for his projects, and politely turned down my offer of the 10 or so pieces in my basement that were left there by the previous owner.





Burger, or just a Quarter –Pounder? Mia finally gets to pet a baby goat.



We stopped in the pasture to see the goat herd and check out Burger, the one week old male, who entertained us with his leaping ability and over all baby animal cuteness. Mia in particular was charmed by the baby goat, and the goats were charmed by the prospect that Farmer Chuck may be getting them some food, so they clustered about us…
It soon became evident to the goats that Chuck was not there to feed them, so they wandered off down the pasture and we wandered back to my truck. All of this was getting to be a lot for my students to absorb in a few hours; They seemed a little overwhelmed and mostly amazed by everything Chuck and Bru have done and accomplished. It was getting time to drive back to Langhorne and catch a train to Philadelphia, so we said our thank yous, goodbyes, and good lucks and headed back towards Lambertville.

And THAT was Chuck’s farm.